This is a great kit. I had a great time building it, and it only took a few hours. However there really needs to be an instruction sheet. Just a page, shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes to write. The provided video and component layout sheets are nice but not enough.

Couple pro tips; make sure you install all the SMT components first. Use hot air reflow if you can, the joints will be a lot cleaner and more uniform. Be sure you position the diodes properly. The board has a mark silkscreened on that corresponds to the line on the component itself.

Then do the segment LEDs and switches. Clip the excess LED leads when you’re done.

The switches don’t go in any specific orientation since they’re just momentary push buttons. Be careful with the small ones - one of mine came apart (the housing and button popped off exposing the membrane - I was able to reassemble it).

Then do the headers. MAKE SURE THE SHORT END OF THE HEADER GOES THROUGH THE MAIN PCB. This was my mistake and one line of text woulda saved me a lot of hassle. If you put the long end through you’ll end up with joints that interfere with the 3D printed case. Either way you’ll need to clip off the excess leads. Then solder the TinyPico and audio shield to the long header pins and clip the leads.

Now finally you have to flash the TinyPico. That wasn’t clear from the video since he did the build then plugged it in and everything worked. Sure, if the computer is already set up. Instructions for doing this are clear-ish on GitHub though those could use some polish too. WiFi settings are in the secrets header file and get directly compiled in.

Once you’ve got the board assembled and test fit into the upper plastic case(not including the acrylic) you can install the DEFCON numbers. These have vinyl protectors on them, both sides. Peel off the white stickers carefully to expose the nice clean acrylic. Drop them in place from above. You’ll see how they sit on top of the RGB LEDs. Take them out one by one and put a TINY dot of super glue on the front of bottom portion. Gently guide it in place and hold it against the outer case (not the LED) until it sticks. Repeat with the others. It’ll look and work great.

I have 2 reflow master pro, one is connected to my BGA rework station (heating : ceramic), the other to my hotplate (heating : PTC)

For my rework station, the temperature is well controlled, but for the hotplate, it is another story, I had to build my own controller to follow with accuracy my soldering profile. According to me, a zero crossing controller should be used in some case (with a random SSR). It will be great to add this feature on the master pro (use the stemmaQT connector as input to grab the pulse for a home made crossing detector).

About the features : This product is excellent

Thank you

1 year ago.
An excellent, fully functionally completed project!
Ready to use.
Without remarks.
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1 year ago.
An excellent, fully functionally completed project!
Ready to use.
Without remarks.
-------------------------------------------------
1 year ago.
An excellent, fully functionally completed project!
Ready to use.
Without remarks.
-------------------------------------------------
1 year ago.
An excellent, fully functionally completed project!
Ready to use.
Without remarks.
------------------------------------------------
1 year ago.
An excellent, fully functionally completed project!
Ready to use.
Without remarks.
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Thanks for the wonderful product!!!

If you're not used to dealing with the super-tiny world of surface-mount components, don't buy this kit until you are.

The kit is very well made and the results are fabulous, but when a capacitor pops out of your tweezers it is *gone*. These components cost pennies and I think the kit should come with extras, but aside from that it's a wonderful display piece.

I've been using this for about a year now, and it does exactly what I need it to do. I've reflowed a few boards with this quite successfully.

I also use the "bake" mode to re-dry my desiccant in my 3D printer filament containers. Very handy.