The Kit is easy to assemble, aside from the tiny SMD capacitors. Those are tricky to solder and make it more complicated, but its doable with a little soldering experience and a set of fine tweezers.
Values for R3 and R4 in the schematic are switched. The Documentation for Version 4 shows the correct steps: R1, R2, R3 are 1k and R4 is 10k.
Reported filament width is ok and the calibration button works.
If you have issues with wrong filament width and/or calibration does not work correctly, try to use an external, stable power supply. I power the sensor via my raspberry pi and it works fine. If I power it via my SKR 2, the reported width is too small. Printer mainboards often do not put out stable 5V or do not provide enough current for the board.
If you print the case at home, print it with black filament. If the holes for the Filament are too small, take a 2 mm drill bit or small screwdriver, heat it up with a lighter and push it through the hole.
Shipping took very long, but I guess due to Corona everything gets delayed. Excellent communication with the seller.
Had some issues getting the temp sensor working, which I'm now guessing had to do with grounding issues in my oven itself. The kit itself is great, the user interface is simple and intuitive. The documentation of wiring could use an update and I couldn't find the source code anywhere.
But the kit works great if you just want to reflow some boards. I made a 3d printed stand and mounted the controller on the oven itself. You can find the mount here- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3797144
I ordered just the Kit because I do a lot of soldering for my projects. But mostly through hole components. But like in the manual the soldering of the LCD chip is very easy. I didn't expect it to work, because it seemed like no solder was going under the chip. But it works. Soldering the SMD capacitors I was a bit fooled by the pictures on the product page. First I soldered them in the through hole place. Also it wasn't very clear how to orient the ATiny85 chip. This should be documented better in the instructions.
First I printed the case in red PLA. It worked by daylight was interfering with the reading. Also I printed the Remix version of the top to fit PTFE tubes and fittings. Now that I printed it in pure black the sensor seems less affected by daylight. It took me also a while where to put the shutter from the print (didn't notice what that part would be). Here also would help a description in the manual.
The sensor is connected to a Bigtreetech SKR1.3 board. This can only handle 3.3V on analog Inputs. Since there is now Filament with more than 3.3mm diameter it would be cool if the output is limited to 3.3V. My board I protected with a 3.3v zener diode.
Thank you for this design. I'm printing now for a while with crappy PLA (1,7-1,9mm diameter) and the prints turn out good so far. The live adjustment looks also very good.
It is a little difficult to connect to the GT2560 board. You must to do a weld and it is not so easy. You must also know the board pinout to select the proper pin and assign it in Marlin. Then a better info from the seller would be very useful for the user. The device runs perfectly and it is a good option to forgive the filament width issues.
I was initially apprehensive about soldering the tiny little sensor onto the board but it turned out to be really easy as the instructions were clear and helpful. Aside from some slight confusion with the SMD capacitors with the extra through holes, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise ( I am really bad at SMD ) it all went together. In total, 4 kits were purchased and assembled by myself and a friend and we had 100% success rate.
As to whether or not it is improving my print quality.... That isn't really the point.