Recently received the product (assembled/tested board). The connector was a different type than the one on the photos. For me, certainly better: it has a protective, hinged shutter.
The coax connector (S/PDIF) is technically superb in comparison to Toslink (higher bandwidth/noise-signal ratio/cheap&flexible cable), however the physical size of the coax interface makes it impossible to fit the connector into a standard RasPi case. If there's a S/PIDF connector there almost certainly is a Toslink connector as well on any receiver.
I had only time to gather some information about how to use the HDMI output with the TinyToslink simultaneously. Haven't had the chance to test it but it all seems plausible. The documentations I've found: https://www.hifiberry.com/docs/software/dual-mono-setup/ https://www.google.com/search?q=alsa+channel+map http://www.6by9.net/output-to-multiple-audio-devices-with-alsa/
Overall this switch is okay but it doesn't fit my expectations.
My configuration is: TV, PC (Windows + Soundblaster) and Playstation 4.
The switch has an audio input search mechanism which keeps scanning the active inputs for a valid audio signal. If there are two or more active input signals (in my case TV and PC) but no valid signal (no audio playback) the switch keeps waiting for 12 seconds on one port for an audio signal before it jumps to the next port to wait another 12 seconds for a valid audio signal and so on. That means that in some cases I lose up to 12 seconds of the beginning of a movie or a song or what so ever. If you have 3 active signals without any audio playback you will lose up to 24 seconds soon as you start something (movie/clip/song/TV etc.). Unfortunately I can't configure my sound card to switch off the SPDIF signal (red light on the optical port) whenever I do nothing on my PC and switch it back on when I hit play on my VLC player. The same thing happens to my TV. The red light at the SPDIF ports of my TV and PC are constantly on.
That's why I can't recommend the switch in my case but it may perfectly fit on other configurations. 3 of 5 Stars because I had to learn that specific behaviour the expensive way (89$) plus after more than 6 weeks the manufacturer missed to give my a final answer if he could assemble a modified firmware for me with a lower scan period at every port (I would have totally accepted a 'No!').
Hi Philipp, this is just the "fallback" mode when multiple devices transmit a signal at the same time. Unfortunately I've been quite busy, but I'll come back to you regarding the firmware update as soon as possible (I didn't forget about it and you will get it)! Best Regards Benjamin
The Audio Switch works fine but there is an annoying issue for me. The inputs status leds are allways blinking in red when there is no input signal. It is annoying for me in darkness. Are there other settings on the switch while only the active input status led is light? Can it be fixed?
Other switchers claim 24/192 support. In reality I have to downsample output to 96Khz or even 48Khz to get clean output without pop/click. This switcher works like a charm. As a plus, both optical & coax outputs simultaneously carry the same signal, so I can hook it up separately to DAC & headphone amp.
Chassis is rather plain with no marking, but no problem since it will be hidden behind equipment cabinet. Only prioritizing the ports need a little thought (leftmost have more priority). Using Google Chromecast Audio, I have to stop the 'cast' to release the connection to the switcher, and it will fallback to active signal with lower priority. Using PC Audio (USB to SPDIF converter), I have to turnoff the PC to release the connection. Other devices like BD, digital TV tuner, switch rather fast & seamlessly as expected.