What is it? This is one part of a DIY reflow oven - the power board. You install this board inside of a toaster oven in place of the original factory controls. From it, you run a low voltage signal...Read More…
This is one part of a DIY reflow oven - the power board. You install this board inside of a toaster oven in place of the original factory controls. From it, you run a low voltage signaling cable out of the oven to the Toast-R-Reflow controller board.
This board consists of two opto-isolated BTA-20 triac switching circuits. Each is rated to handle up to 800 watts of power. The two combined can therefore handle 1600 watts worth of toaster oven. Since most toaster ovens have top and bottom elements separately wired, this arrangement is ideal.
Assembly of the power board is simple. It has only a dozen through-hole components.
The hot line of the incoming power cable of the oven is connected to the HOT terminal on the board, and the hot side of each heating element is connected to the two OUT terminals. The low voltage communication cable is connected to the screw terminals on the other side of the board and routed outside of the oven through a grommet hole. Attach the board inside wherever it will fit, close the oven and you're done.
When I started on the road of doing reflow work, I saw lots of other folks had done a toaster oven conversion, but there was always something I didn't like about the result.
I wanted my oven to be as safe as possible to both operate as well as debug and otherwise tinker with. I also wanted it to be simple to build and use, and inexpensive too.
I've been using this design since 2013 and still using the original Hamilton Beach 31138 oven, and it still works perfectly.
This particular item is only the power board kit. To complete the project you also need:
If you prefer, you can design and build your own controller (an Arduino, an LCD shield and a thermocouple amplifier breakout board are all you need). To drive the power board, treat the two inputs as if they were LEDs. For 5 volts, use 150 ohm series resistors. You can just use the bare ATMel / Arduino digital pins directly (with the series resistors, of course) - no need for additional switching devices.
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