Breakout for ATtiny3224, 1614, and all other 14-pin tinyAVR 0/1/2-series parts, Arduino compatible - but not requiredDesigned by Azduino by Spence Konde in United States of America
Finally, the move is completed and we have connectivity at our new location I know I brought over the inventory to sell, but which box is it in? (orders will start shipping tuesday)
Assembled board shown for reference only - this is the listing for the BARE BOARD Assembled boards with ATtiny1624 or ATtiny1614 (and 1604 while supplies last) are available my other listing The late…Read More…
Assembled board shown for reference only - this is the listing for the BARE BOARD
The latest version is the Rev. C/D - the two versions are identical except for two things:
The Rev. D is still at the board house.
The Rev. C does not have the LED connected. Do not place R3 or D2. This makes the boards essentially unsalable for me as assembled boards. But as bare boards - half price! As always, buy the whole stock of boards, get the stainless steel stencil free!
The biggest change With Rev. C amd D is - they're narrower than the old ones: Nowe the rows of pins on the edges are 0.6" apart - and you know what that means: You can also put machined pin header on them, facing down, and plug them into a Wide DIP socket, This works great with my prototyping boards, especially the new 1.5" x 4" DIP-48 ones. The machined pins are also far better for use with breadboards, since they don't deform te contacts in the holes like normal pin header. We switched to dark blue solder mask to improve readability of solder mask, pins are now marked with both the pin name in Pxn notation (eg, PB2 is the pin corresponding to bit 2 of PORTB, and can be referred to if using my Arduino core as PIN_PB2 - since the functions are based on this, using this notation makes it easy to port your design between tinyAVR parts with different numbers of pins.For example, you want to output some PWM on 2 pins, so you choose PB0 and PB1. You then want to move to a 1626 because you didn't have quite enough pins. If you referred to those pins by their numbers, you'd have to change that. But if you call them PIN_PB0 and PIN_PB1, those would be correctly identified and you could likely move between the 14, 20, and 24 pin parts without any code changes (and that is why I promote that system!). We also mark some of the common alternate functions next to the pins, though some of the panels don't have silkscreen as sharp as I'm used to, which isn't great with the small text. We list the pins for the tinyAVR 2-series now too (note that the TX1 and RX1 and the second serial port they are associated with is only on the 2-series). We have also improved markings around the groups of jumpers on the back for making use of the DTR and CTS linesBy default, CTS (which is an input to the serial adapter) will be tied to UPDI (also an input) but it allows a modified cable to connect to both UPDI and Serial (through two separate serial adapters), allowing you to use a modified 6-pin serial cable to conveniently connect both at once. It can also be left floating , tied to ground (some software expects the CTS line to be driven low and uses that as a way of detecting that it's connected to something. Finally it can be connected to PB0, the XDIR pin for USART0, which will be mighty convenient if you happen to be doing anything with RS485, now that the Serial class supports Serial.begin(57600,SERIAL_8N1 | SERIAL_RS485 | SERIAL_HALF_DUPLEX.
The reset enable jumper is now a pair which can route either the pulse to the UPFI/Reset pin (for autoreset) or to PB1, where you could detect it with a LOW level interrupt and trigger a reset based on it (Ersatz reset). These parts don't have the much talked of alternate reset support - it moves reset to PB4, but these parts stop at PB3, so they are still resetless.
This is a breakout board for all of the "modern" ATtiny parts in SOIC-14 pin packages. They are numbered like:
mm is flash size is kb,
d is the series, 0, 1 or 2, and the 4 indicates that it's the 14-pin version. The 8-pin parts end in 2, 20-pin ones in 6, and 24-pin ones in 7 (my understanding is that the 14, 20, and 24 pin versions use the same die; a complication resulting from this may be the reason that we saw so few 8-pin tinyAVR parts released; within each series, parts of the same flash size and 14-24 pins have identical pinouts, provided that the pin exists on a given pincount(ie, PC0 has the same function on any part that has it).
All of the modern tinyAVR devices are highly capable and affordable - prices are lower than most classic AVR ATtiny devices (as with EVERYTHING since the 2016 AVR revolution) - while the peripherals use the latest and greatest technology (let's face it - the classic AVR peripherals had been getting a little stale. Actually, they'd been stale for a while). As far as I can tell, Microchip tests out their new technology on a tinyAVR before bringing it to a full sized chip most of the time. The tinyAVR 1-series brought us the Type D high speed async timer which then showed up in 2020 on the DA-series - and while the headline features of the DB-series were entirely novel, the only other changes that showed up in the DA/DB series were evolutionary. Now, in 2021, the amazing new fully differential ADC wth Programable Gain Amplifier (PGA) is featured on the 2-series tinyAVRs; this has been announced for the AVR EA-series line of full size parts for future release. These parts are fully compatible with Arduino using my megaTinyCore, and you can access the full functionality of the new ADC through a handful of new functions, or use analogRead() for backwards compatible ADC functionality.
U1 ATtiny 3224, 1624, 823, 424, 1614, 814, 414, 1604, 804 or 404 in SOIC-14. (You should totally buy at least 10 of these, so you can build them all)
C1 0.1uF Cap - decoupling, for the chip (1206 on Rev. A, 0805 on Rev. C)
C2 Recommended, required if regulator used (4.7uF or as directed by regulator datasheet if using one) 1206 on Rev. A, 0805 on Rev. C.
C3 (If using regulator) 1206 Input Cap for regulator (4.7uF or as directed by regulator datasheet) (1206 on all versions, since it has to deal with the higher input voltage, It turns out you can easily solder an 0805 on there, though
C4 0.1uF Cap (optional, Rev. A+ only, if you need autoreset and are willing to disable UPDI and either use optiboot to program, or unsolder the bridge every time you reprogram. Neither is recommended, see below) (1206 on Rev. A, 0805 on Rev. C.)
R1 470 ohm resistor. Early revisions were assembled with a 4.7k resistor, this is inappropriately high and interferes with many programmers. This went uncorrected on this page (yet nowhere else afaik) for about a year after the problem was recognized mid 2020. See notes below. (1206 on Rev. A, 0805 on Rev. C, can be bypassed by bridging RBP (Resistor ByPass) jumper on bottom.
R2 10k resistor (optional, Rev. A+ only, only if you want autoreset, see notes below) (1206 on Rev, A, 0805 on Rev. C
R3 1206 resistor (ballast for LED - 2.2k ~ 220 ohm depending on how bright you like your LEDs) Omit on Rev. C - LED is not connected.
D1 diode, band facing regulator(optional, Rev. A+ only, only if you want autoreset, see notes below) On Rev. B and earlier, this is an SOD-123 diode, on Rev. C/D it's in SOT-23 package. I use dual diode, common cathode arrays. One diode isn't used, but they're about the same price, and I use them in many other designs.
LED1 (optional) 1206 LED, this is connected to PA7 (Arduino pin 3). Omit on Rev. C, it isn't connected.
F1 (if using regulator) 1206 PTC fuse (1A max recommended, can replace with jumper if you like to live dangerously or your power supply is already current limited). Or, if you don't want a regulator but do want to limit current in, you can place the fuse, and put a jumper in place of U2 (which is what we now do for our non-regulator assembled boards)
U2 (optional) 1117-series or compatible voltage regulator in SOT-223 package (Recommended: LDL1117) - or a 0 ohm 2512 resistor can be placed bridging the middle pin, the tab, and the pin on the right. This will connect Vin and Vout directly, meaning you can run it at the voltage you're bringing in, without giving up the fuise.
C5 - Rev. C/D only, required only if Y1 is installed. 0805, value per clock manufacturer datasheet, typically 0.01 to 0.1 uF.
Y1 - Rev. C/D only, optional. You can now use an external clock in 3225 package@ The enable and Vdd pin go on the twe pads closer to UPDI. Don't get rotated 180 degrees
Pin Header - 1x3 for UPDI header, 1x6 for FTDI serial header. 2 1x15 headers for the I/O pins - recommend normal square header for use with DuPont jumpers, or machined pin header for use with breadboard. All 0.1" pitch.
Power header (if using regulator) Your preferred 2-pin power connector (or wires to in-line connector), 0.1" pitch. JST XH, a pair of wires going to a connector, and many other things are viable options here. If you solder wires directly to the board glue them to the board with hot glue after, This will prevent the wire from fatiguing and breaking - direct solder connnections to a PCB or really anything rigid are very prone to that failure mode, because it wicks up into the wire and hardens. Where the rigid solder-soaked wire meets and almost inevitably fails there even if handled carefully. the flexible non-soldered wire, it is very easy to break off. Note: On Rev. - boards (sold out), the reference designators are missing from the top silkscreen. Refer to images as reference; part locations are:
U1, U2 - obvious
2 1206 parts on either side of UPDI header - R3, LED1. The end of the diode closer to top of boards is the positive side (ie, the one not marked with the faint green dot on most parts)
2 1206 parts between UPDI header and U1 - (starting from UPDI header) R1, C1
2 1206 parts between regulator and Vin header (starting from edge of board) - F1, C2
1 1206 part on other side of regulator - C3
Unlike other AVR microcontrollers, these new parts are programmed via a "UPDI" singlewire interface instead of the SPI-based ICSP protocol. and you can make a UPDI programmer from any cheap Arduino Nano clone - or an even better, cheaper one from a plain old USB-serial adapter!
The order of the pins on the UPDI header is UPDI-Gnd-Vcc - this means that if the programmer is connected backwards, the board will not be damaged.
Early revisions were assembled with a 4.7k resistor, this is inappropriately high and interferes with some programmers - most notably SerialUPDI/pyupdi (though the direct UPDI pin along the side of the board will work regardless of the resistor value installed here. This went uncorrected on this page (yet nowhere else afaik) for about a year after the problem was recognized mid 2020. 470 is more appropriate. Exact value is not critical (obviously, since I'd been selling assembled boards for a year before someone managed to explain to me why that was wrong) - anything from 220 to 1k is definitely fine, up to 4.7k will work with most but not all programmers, and any programmer with a resistor in series with the UPDI line is fine with a 0-ohm or jumper here. Programmers with no resistance between their output and the wire connected to the UPDI header on this board, however, "ought" to have a resistor here.
Rev. A and later has pads for the autoreset circuit - but it's only practical for a development board when a bootloader is in use.
On Rev. -, placing these parts will prevent all UPDI programming; do not place C4, D1, or R2 on Rev. - boards.
megaTinyCore now supports the Optiboot bootloader for serial uploads (though you still need a UPDI programmer to bootload the board - our assembled boards are now available with optiboot preinstalled) - if you wish to use this with autoreset, you must bootload the board with an Optiboot board definition selected, with the UPDI pin configured as reset (note that this makes further UPDI programming impossible without an HV programmer), and then solder the two small contacts on the bottom of the board in order to enable autoreset (which would have blocked UPDI programming to bootload were it connected at that time). After that, it can be programmed with just a serial adapter (same 1x6-pin header as used on the Arduino Pro Mini and others).
If you don't want to use Optiboot, but DO want autoreset - you will have to unsolder that jumper and then use an HV programmer every time you wish to reprogram it. Are you SURE that's what you want?
More information on Optiboot and the megaavr ATtiny parts is available in the megaTinyCore documentation.
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Marco | Sept. 4, 2020
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