This is a PCB kit to add a USB-C port to the 3DS or 3DS XL, this usbc port supports usbc to usbc charging as well as usb A to usb C charging. It comes with two 5.1k Ohm resistors to negotiate 5 volt charging with any usbc charger (you don’t have to worry about your charger having too much power/voltage). This kit comes with a bezel to cover the gaps between the case and the USBC port as well as a resin jig for positioning the USBC port on the motherboard. This kit is for either the original or XL model, you don't have to double check that you have the right version both bezel sets come in the kit.

Mod Difficulty: 3-6/10, the original 3DS is harder to mod than the 3DS XL.

Special Considerations: -The original 3DS requires more filing than the 3DS XL on the port face requiring you to ‘square’ out the slot more -A rotary tool makes this kit far easier to install.

Sanding/fitting: It’s easier to do the sanding first. 1. Remove the pcb from the jig we will be using it to test our fit.

1. Use flush cutters to snip the ‘gates’ on the charging port face leaving the area empty, then take a square file and take down high spots until the bezel face fits in, you may need to remove some material from the area right about the old charge port to make space.

3.Put the bezel onto the pcb from the kit and test if it fits into place, if not scrape, file, or cut any obstructions to achieve a fit. 3DS: If you put the pcb in place you will see that the metal shield for the battery compartment comes too close to the pcb you will have to file or cut the shield and the plastic underneath to make sure it doesn’t obstruct or touch the pcb.

Disassembly/installation:

1. Disassemble your 3DS or 3DS XL do not unscrew the motherboard or unplug the motherboard cables.

2. 3DS XL: Look at the old charging port use your flush cutters to cut the ‘wings’ (that retain the brass contacts) of the charging port (refer to pictures on the listing). Add flux to the pads of the brass contacts, use your soldering iron (300-330 Celsius) to heat up the brass contact pad/joint (optionally add low temp solder) when the solder is molten lift the contact and wing out with tweezers do it for both contacts.

3. Add flux to all the joints/pads of the old charging port optionally add low temp solder to those same joint/pads. While rotating your iron between pad all the pads pull gently upwards on the old charging port with tweezers to remove the old charging port. Do not pull hard, you risk lifting pads.

4. Use soldering wick and your soldering iron to remove solder from the pads leaving it relatively flat. Be careful too much heat can run the risk of lifting pads.

(Preferred) 5. Remove the screws on the side of the motherboard with the charging port. Gently lift the motherboard (it still has screws holding it down on the other side you’re not removing it) and slip the jig with the pcb into place push it in firmly.

(Not recommended). 5. Unscrew the motherboard, unscrew the control stick, remove both the motherboard and control stick (make sure to unplug all cables first). Add flux to the pads of the charging port and use either a hot air station or your soldering iron to remove the port. Take a knife or flush cutters and snip the small plastic ridge under the motherboard to the left and right of the charging port cavity. Slip the jig with the pcb onto the motherboard firmly.

1. Add flux to the rear pads of the kit pcb, place your soldering iron on one of the outer pads then bring in solder to add to the pad creating a solder fillet. With the iron continuing to heat up the pad use your finger to push down the jig/pcb to lay it flat and slowly remove the iron wait 10 or so seconds to cool the fillet do the same for the other outer pad. Bring your soldering iron to the center pads and add solder, make sure the two pads don’t connect (there’s no need to push the pcb down with the center pads). DO NOT ADD SOLDER TO THE PADS ON THE SIDES.

2. Use a multimeter in continuity mode to test the center pads and make sure they’re not connected together. Use the multimeter on the cartridge slot shield to test against the usbc shield to see if you have a connection to ground. 3DS: Testing the 5v pad is very difficult without the motherboard removed, there is a tiny via near the right corner of the kit pcb on the motherboard above the ‘5’ on the motherboard (refer to pictures) test it against the right center pad for continuity (they should be connected). 3DS XL: Use the fuse F1 near the cartridge shield as the motherboard 5v test point against the right center pad of the kit pcb.

3. Remove the jig, screw the motherboard back in, if you removed it reconnect all cables (refer to an assembly/disassembly video) then screw it back in place. 3DS: Make sure the slide switch on the charging port side is properly in place

REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED TOOLS: 1. Soldering Iron 2. Flux 3. Solder 4. Phillips screwdriver (size 0 covers most devices) 5. Multimeter with continuity mode 6. Files and/or rotary tool 7. Flush Cutters 8. Tweezers

INCLUDED: 1. USB-C PCB 2. Resin Installation Jig 3. Resin Bezel(s) color(s): A black and a white resin jig for the 3DS XL, A black and a silver resin jig of the 3DS