Honestly, I still have a lot to learn about this, but the product seems very well built and Paul has been tremendously helpful. I had searched high and low for something like this, and I think it's an outstanding value for the cost. Worth trying for sure. Thanks, Paul!
Purchased two each of 16 MHz and 20 MHz versions, and wondered if I would have to use ICSP for programming the fast one - but that wasn't necessary. I found a description somewhere else about installation into the Arduino IDE; you will have to enter the URL of a json file - then it goes automatically. (Go to menu File / Preferences and enter the address in the field Additional Boards Manager URLs). I then had to fiddle with the baud rate setting in the file boards.txt - it was the variable atmega328pbcc.upload.speed that had a wrong value. (Perhaps something you could clear up and put somewhere on the web page, Paul? - or have I overlooked something?) It is great to have access to three 16 bit counters in this small package! A 20 MHz clock gives a nice round period of 50 ns which simplifies some scenario. On the other hand: I moved a project from an ATmega2560 to one of these boards with the code hand-tuned for a 16 MHz clock - its not so simple that faster is better! I prefer the clean port numbering scheme over the Arduino pin numbers - but it is handy to have both in a spreadsheet file when you allocate pins and resources for your project; many libraries refer to Arduino pin numbers. These boards are very much recommended.
This is a brilliant, simple design to fill a niche testing that I had no idea I needed until I read about it. Leonerd is a great maker (I love his current probe for oscilloscope) and this is just a nifty testing tool. It hit me in the middle of the night how much use I would get from this, and my 1st use I was not let down. It is a great testing tool. Overkill if you only test one bit for continuity at once, but if you can think along multiple paths, you can test multiple paths. The indicator is efficient, and ability to use a normal probe and/or hooks is really nifty. very cool. You need this, you just don't realize it yet. (btw: Shipping to USA was fast & well packaged)
Update: I accidentally put the box on my hot plate and left the room... came back to a smell and melted box. Luckily I had a box about the same size. The reason I set it down is that I was moving wires around on my workspace. Since I was going to stick in a new box, I thought I might as well have an option to use it without a battery -- I had a lipo charger module, a tiny 5v boost regulator, and a small lipo battery -- Unfortunately for me, the box was smaller making it a challenge to fit everything; The original box had more than ample room (in case anyone else has the same idea).
It seems like I use this every day. Just a great, brilliant, simple little tool, and well built.
In terms of "thinking along multiple paths", I usually like to use this for testing PCBs fresh from the fab. I connect the red and green clips to VCC and GND, because often those are filled planes on one layer of the board. The flying probe can then check connectivity to all the footprint pads along with the yellow probe, while at the same time checking for bridges between traces that ought to be isolated, and one of those planes. Occasionally I've picked up board errors due to that.
I ordered this to go with the oscilloscope current probe plus. These work great, and are well built. I wish I had ordered a couple more, they would be useful for more than just powering the current probe!
I have an older version of the original current probe, and it has served me well; with a few hacks to it; it's been one of those tools I keep close at hand. So when I saw he came out with a new updated version, I just wanted to support him. This version is awesome, but may not be for everyone. The ease of use and the improved range is really nice when you're not just dealing with USB-powered projects. The BNC cables & hook power cable is a nice addition, they are well made. Leonerd is great at helping you get going, and answering questions.
These are nicely made a nice length -- perfect for working on the bench & a scope on a shelf (I got the pair with 90 degree ends on both ends) Goes great with either of his oscilloscope current probes.
The Oscilloscope current probe adapter is an excellent accessory to go with any oscilloscope, the type of connections onboard are perfect and it seems to be extremely responsive. The only 2 things that would be good to change would be optional simple acrylic case similar to those available for the bus pirate. The other would be an onboard boost converter so that it didn't a separate power source for current measurements above the input voltage, although i understand this would add much complexity and cost.
It's not as robust as I would like (I would like to read 3.3v up to 500ma) but it is near perfect for hobby-users. I use it for checking low-power gizmos that I run on batteries where run time is critical -- squeezing every little ma out key, and this makes it easy to visually see what changes result in what... I didn't have any bnc cables around, so I had to solder on a (standard) header pin (not included) so I could attach my scope probes. The board is well labeled & built. The only thing I would suggest is read the description carefully and understand the limits. Works great for what it is intended for!
---- Edit 26 April 2016 Having used it for a while now, I love it even more. I ended up putting it in a small box as it could get odd readings if I touched it; or it grounded to something else. (duct tape worked great until I happened upon a perfect box). I recently built a few "uCurrent" boards & compared it this; readings were very close. In fact, this fluctuated (accurately) more than the uCurrent; this is good when viewing on an oscilloscope as you get a better feel for leds flashing, or more loss -- the uCurrent seems to buffer the flutters. You really can't go wrong for this price!
Low-power battery projects are indeed what I built it for - glad you found it useful there :)
The space reserved for the 3pin header is useful for attaching non-BNC connectors, indeed. I decided not to populate it because people might prefer header or socket on there, so this gives them the choice - the intended users for this kind of equipment should be able to easily handle fitting that themselves.
As to the current-reading limit of 100mA per volt of supply, you have found that you can't read up to 500mA when supplied at only 3.3V. It was a trade-off in design, between requiring a separate external power supply, or tapping off the same supply that powers the load. I opted for the latter as it makes for an easier setup, and should still be within the limits of what most designs require. If I did a redesign for a newer version, perhaps that's something I could look into - maybe a 3pin header you can switch with a jumper, to either tap off the supply as it does now, or use a separate supply input for the current amp. In such a setup you'd be able to supply 5V there to give it the 500mA measurement ability, but still supply 3.3V to your load.
I recently got a batch of tiny SMD ATTiny24A's and needed a way to prototype easily with them.... and this is it. It plugs in a standard breadboard, has a 6pin ICSP header and a zero-insertion-force socket to hold the chip in place. I am new to programming adapters, so it took me a couple of tries to place the chip and the cable in the right direction, but now that i got it right, it's all good.
Predictably, when you are facing the "ATtiny SOIC-to-PDIP14" silkscreen markings, you want your pin 1 (marked by the little hole) at the top left.
Leonerd was very helpful and friendly too, so that's cool too.