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This board is ideal if you are mounting a 3D printer and you do not want to complicate your life.
It is the natural evolution of the Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 SB. A solution with all the integrated components.
With this plate you’ll save having to buy the Arduino Mega 2560, plus 1.4 RAMPS, and having to connect a pair of drivers for step by step motors.
For the Marlin firmware, the board is a RAMPS 1.4. The pins and connectors coincide precisely, and are 100% compatible
Download the Marlin, and select the plate.
It’s the setup that comes by default.
With this you can configure the Marlin as if it was a RAMPS 1.4 with an extruder, a layer fan, and a warm bed.
Staticboards philosophy is to select the quality components. That’s why both the power connectors and the transistors are branded.
Selected to withstand hours of continuous printing, without having to worry that the connectors melt, burn, and have an accident.
This product will solve many problems if you are thinking of setting up a printer from scratch.
Or in case in which your old electronics have been burned, and you’re looking for a definitive solution.
OVM20 comes from the Galician expression Otra vaca no millo (somehow similar to That if you want rice, Catherine)
The reason I put in the 20 comes from long time ago, I designed a similar plate, which has served as inspiration for this version.
Yes, the board has black anodized aluminum heat sinks
To simplify the design, the drivers are configured for 32 micro stepping.
Definitely. The OVM20 is the same as a RAMPS 1.4
The board has two 12V outputs for additional fans (or whatever you need).
There is a 6-pin block that is used to program the atmega2560 the first time. It is what is called ICSP, and if you are a hacker, you can use it for many things.
The other block has UART communication, which you can use to connect in remote (I do not know if it would work with a Bluetooth, you have to try it).
You also have an I2C output to connect a device such as colored LEDs.
If possible. Marlin understands GCODE commands, and you can use the board to move engines and light a drill.
It’s not possible. The LDO controller does not withstand so much drop from 24V to 5V and overheats. In addition, the capacitors are 16V
To calibrate the drivers, there is no exact value. It depends on many factors. If the printer is a Prusa, if you use bearings well lubricated, the weight of the extruder, and the speed of printing, etc.
The values of the OVM20 Lite are set so that the reference voltage of the potentiometer goes from 0 to 0.76V.
The formula is current = 4 * Reference voltage.
So if you put the potentiometer in half, the formula would be 0.76 / 2 * 4 = 1.52A, which is a normal value for a driver.
I leave here a table that can serve as reference (if for example, you set up many OVM20 lite at once).
If the engine gets very hot, turn the power off by turning the potentiometer.
And if you lose footsteps, then get on a little bit more. Simple.
The more you lower it, the better. The more you raise it, the more the driver will warm up.
And you do not want a hot driver. Driver life will be shorter, and you will have to change boards (or motors) sooner.
Check to see if you can better lubricate the bearings, or if you can lower the weight of the machine so that the motors do not have to push so much.
In general, Windows should install it automatically, as soon as you connect the OVM20
But if you have problems, here is the link of the original drivers: http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html
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For international orders, as we have to go to the central post office, we usually send items only two times per week, so, your order can take some days to be shipped.
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StaticBoards is a Spanish hwstartup that want to manufacture DIY products in Spain