We appreciate for many years to have a stock of Lipos with an mini-USB male connector, used to power our Arduino-compatible cards.
If you are working with sensors and robot, or any autonomous application, you have to move from the programming workplace, where you cannot perform all your tests, to the test place. Autonomy means LiPo battery, simplicity means 3.7V/5V compatibility, comfort mean just removing/insering the USB plug when you move.
Also, you surely dreamed to show the nice light show or sensor demo you made, to your friends around a fiesta dinner or at office? The LiPo on the adapter avoid tricky wires that will disconnect. Change the battery in a moment.
When the LiPo module is in front of your card, you work as usually and the Lipo is charged or trickle charged. Disconnect the USB and switch on, the card is powered at 3.7V.
All the Arduino cards work well at 3V, if they have not been programmed for a brown-out at 4.5V. Most 5V sensors work also at 3.7V. 3.2V sensors needs anyway es LDO, tha accept 5V and 3.7V.
Adding a DC-DC converter brings a lot of problems. How much current do you need? You never worry when connected to USB. You will not worry with a LiPo, its internal resistance is low. You will have problem with DC-DC converter if not dimensionned correctly. Take them too large - cost, size. Too small - sudden voltage drops.
We like to have LiPos always ready to power our Arduino cards. As you probably do, we have many Arduino compatible cards. Several with test programs we never change. We use oled to display results. Is this sensor good? What is the I2C address of this slave? Connect, power with a Lipo, that's done.
We have similar LiPos for the Arduino Uno cards and their huge connector. Both Lipo modules connect with reliable miniUSB connectors, so you can use the easy roll-up cable.
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Many years in microcontroller educational field.
We love robots, clean solutions and efficient power usage.
We develop and need debugging help, see what we did develop for ourselves you can get