Assembled ATtiny3217, tinyAVR 1-series, 21 I/O pins, 8 PWM channels, DAC, Arduino supportDesigned by Azduino by Spence Konde in United States of America
Finally, the move is completed and we have connectivity at our new location I know I brought over the inventory to sell, but which box is it in? (orders will start shipping tuesday)
Convenient, minimalist development/breakout board for new ATtiny3217 (or 1607) Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasing parts based on their new "megaavr" architecture. These u…Read More…
Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasing parts based on their new "megaavr" architecture. These use the familiar AVR instruction set and open source avr-gcc compiler used with the classic AVR microcontrollers, but with redesigned and more capable on-chip peripherals and highly competitive prices. The best known of these (among hobbyists, at least) is the ATmega4809, used on the Arduino Uno WiFi Rev.2 and Nano Every. However, there is also an extensive line of ATtiny parts based on this new architecture - and now with my megaTinyCore, there is full Arduino IDE support for these.
These breakout boards come equipped with your choice of 3.3v or 5v regulator (ZLDO1117 or LDL1117 depending on stock - currently, all 3.3v boards except 3217/no autoreset version use ZLDO1117, all 5v boards have LDL1117 - we are moving to the superior LDL1117) so that it can be supplied with an external supply (minimum 1.3v higher than operating voltage for ZLDO1117, 0.35v for LDL1117) using the two pins in the lower left corner, an LED (on PA7, Arduino pin 3), and a UPDI programming header (with the 470 ohm resistor on the board). There is a 1x6 pin "FTDI"-style serial header on the bottom edge of the board. This board is available with or without autoreset support, but an analysis of user patterns and chatter has revealed that the autoreset circuit is rarely used because of the need for inconvenient high voltage programming - moving forward 3217's will only be restocked with non-autoreset ones, while 3227's will since theyt have an alternate reset pin. Pictures 1 and 3 show boards with autoreset, pictures 2 and 4 show boards without autoreset.
Optiboot bootloader allows programming with just an external serial adapter (like an Arduino Pro Mini), making these parts easier to use than ever before!
All pins are broken out, and there are 4 Vcc and 4 Gnd pins available, plus the ones on the UPDI and Serial headers so even if you're not using breadboard, you can still easily connect power and ground for multiple external devices.
Board dimensions are 1.9" x 0.85"
The 2-series tinies with 32k of flash have at long last started shipping! Though sourcing the 24-pin version looks like it won't be easy for a while, because the large distributors aren't as fast to order the QFN parts it seems (saw the same thing with all the other recent AVR releases). In any event, a Rev. C board needs to be designed to make the same changes that the other boards got for Rev. C, most importantly, adding support for autoreset on the alt-reset pin and a reset button like every board deserves. They will also of course get the narrower form factor and blue soldermask for easier to read markings in response to user complaints. How does the '3227 differ? This is an interesting part - while the 1-series was unquestionably an upgrade from the 0-series, going from a 1 to a 2 is more of a sidegrade.
The new features are a really big deal - obviously getting the reset pin without HV programming basically means the rest of us get a reset pin, instead of the few people with exotic programmers. The real headline feature though is an all-new DAC. An all new, true differential 12-bit DAC with a programmable gain amplifier, 1024 sample automatic accumulation (great for oversampling and decimation - a 17-bit measurement is theoretically possible, as their marketing material proclaims. (megaTinyCore lets you do that automatically - though I won't vouch for how many of those 17 bits are signal as opposed to noise) Even if you aren't taking it to the limit, it is still a much, much better ADC. And it is a real differential ADC, not the kind that the DA/DB-series got, which can only measure voltages below the reference. There are 15 pins that can be used as analog inputs (though only 7 of those can be the negative input while doing differential readings - analog inputs can be used for single-ended or
The benefits are steep, but so is the price; not financially - they're the same price - but you pay in features: All the special features that set the "golden" 1-series apart: the second ADC, the second and third analog comparator - they're out, and they took the DAC and type D timer on their way out. So like I said, a side-grade. They also get 1k more ram. Currently we have 2-series 16k parts in stock and assembled, and I've got some 3224's and 3226's en route (I'd have needed to buy 490 of the 3227's at this point - no thank you. )
The ATtiny1607 is the "top-end" 0-series part in the 24-pin package. The 0-series is intended for low cost applications, and cuts a few features - but the cost of the chip is a very small part of the price of these boards, so the discount is small. For hobbyists and one-off projects, the 3217 is almost certainly a better deal. We offered these for customers hoping to design products (where the lower cost matters) with the 0-series parts - however, due to poor sales and size of the small size of the market, we do not plan to restock the 1607-based version after current stock sells out.
The main differences are:
In some of the pictures shown above, the boards are shown with pin header (not included) attached. We recommend:
We sell sets of colored pin header as an option, the set includes 2 1x11 black sections, 1x4 red and green sections (power, ground), a 1x3 right angle white section for UPDI, and 1x6 right angle section for the serial port. They give an instant reminder of which group of pins is which, and more importantly, look beautiful when you share pictures of your product.
There are two approaches to programming these parts.
Unlike other AVR microcontrollers, these new parts are programmed via a "UPDI" singlewire interface instead of the SPI-based ICSP protocol. You can easily use a standard Arduino Nano, Uno, or Pro Mini as a UPDI programmer, this is what we use and recommend - see the instructions here -
The order of the pins on the UPDI header is UPDI-Gnd-Vcc - this means that if the programmer is connected backwards, the board will not be damaged. There is a 470 ohm resistor on these boards, so you don't need to add one (however, there is no harm in doing so, and it makes the programmer usable on a bare chip). (note: early versions were assembled with a 4.7k resistor - this is not recommended, and we have been trying to catch these and swap the resistor before these go out the door, but we may occasionally miss a board. These do work with the jtag2updi programmer described at that link, even with the 4k7 resistor, ... but not with the serial-adapter-and-resistor pyupdi-style programmer (though that will work when connected directly to the UPDI pin)
A typical development configuration might have the board connected to a serial port via the 6-pin serial header for serial debug, and to the UPDI programmer via the 3-pin header for uploading new code (as shown in the pictures)
As of megaTinyCore 1.1.2, the Optiboot bootloader is supported for all parts; this works with an external serial adapter (like the 6-pin ones used for the Arduino Pro Mini). Optiboot takes up 512b of flash for the bootloader. In addition to obliviating the need for a UPDI programmer to upload sketches, Optiboot allows you to use the same port for upload and serial monitor like a normal Arduino board. On the ATtiny412 and ATtiny402 parts, due to the limited memory, we do not recommend using Optiboot.
There are two general approaches to using Optiboot on these parts:
Without auto-reset, UPDI enabled. On all boards that do not support auto-reset, and on boards that do if this option is selected, the UPDI/Reset pin will be left as UPDI, and the board can be freely reprogrammed via UPDI. The version of the bootloader installed will be active for 8 seconds after power on, or after a WDT or software reset. So for example, to upload, you would verify sketch, unplug, plug back in, and then upload - or alternatively, you could adapt your sketch to trigger a software reset. UPDI programming will still be possible. Note that for these boards, you must use UPDI to "burn bootloader" with the non-optiboot board definition selected if you want to switch back to uploading sketches via UPDI
With auto-reset, no UPDI. On boards which do support auto-reset (if using optiboot), you may elect to order the board with or without that enabled. If it is, the bootloader will not run on power on; it will only run after a "hardware reset" - it will not run after a normal power on reset. Only after external (reset pin) or software reset; this mimics the behavior of a classic bootloader on (for example) an ATmega328p, and coupled with autoreset provides a very smooth user experience. Warning: This comes with a very large downside: if this option is chosen, you cannot reprogram the board via UPDI unless you use an "HV UPDI" programmer. The RST_EN solder bridge must also be disconnected prior to this.
A third approach is to upload sketches which all have a means of triggering a "software reset" from within the sketch, either from a pin interrupt (the existing autoreset parts could be wired to this pin). With other trigger mechanisms, this could be used in more advanced deployments, such as a device at the far end of a serial line, which resets in response to a specific command0). These schemes allow one to use the bootloader without powercycling the board while also permitting use of UPDI programming - however because they depend on the sketch, they are inherently more "brittle", and that UPDI programming option may become necessary to revive boards during development -in the event of bugs in the application. This method is beyond the scope of this product listing.
If purchased without the bootloader installed, if you later decide that you want it, you may install it using a UPDI by doing burn bootloader (if using autoreset and UPDI pin set as reset, the jumper on the back must be closed after bootloading); this pre-bootloading service is intended only as a convenience.
Boards with optiboot preinstalled are bootloaded at the time the order is received. All boards are set to 20-MHz derived clock speeds unless 16 MHz is requested, 4.2 sampled BOD, 3.3v boards are set to 10MHz (will also run at 5MHz) 2.6v sampled BOD. No-regulator boards are set to 20MHz/10MHz/5MHz, with BOD disabled to minimize idle power consumption. Because these are bootloaded on-demand, and since UPDI programming is disabled on autoreset boards, if you have different requirements (eg, 16MHz base clock to allow 16MHz/8MHz/4MHz speeds, or different BOD settings), this can be done, just list what you want in order comments.
More information on Optiboot and the tinyAVR 0/1-series parts is available in the megaTinyCore documentation.
The linear regulators offered can provide a regulated operating voltage provided Vin in at least 1.3v (ZLDO1117) higher than the operating voltage. These regulators are appropriate when your current requirements are relatively low, and you have access to a power supply with a voltage higher than the operating voltage (max 18v input) - maximum power dissipation, however, is only ~1.2W without adding heatsinks, (that is to say (Vin - Vout)*(current) < 1.2W) so the practical maximum current is much lower.
Example calculations of maximum current when using the regulator:
Vin=12v, Vout=5v. Vin-Vout=7V. 7V*I < 1.2W -> I < 1.2W/7V -> I < 170mA
Vin=7v, Vout=5v. Vin-Vout=2V. 2V*I < 1.2W -> I < 1.2W/2V -> I < 600mA
Only the Vin pin goes through the regulator - all other Vcc pins (including the UPDI and FTI headers) are connected directly to the Vcc rail - so if you have a 3.3v regulator, but connect a 5v serial adapter's 5v line to the board, the board will be running at 5v (this will not harm the board itself, as long as the voltage does not exceed 5.5v - but if you have 3.3V devices connected to it, those may be harmed, so if you have any of those connected, you must use a 3.3v serial adapter or power some other way, and not connect the 5v pin of the serial adapter (the data lines are fine, as serial adapters almost universally have a 1k~2.2k resistor in series with the TX and RX lines which will limit the current to a non-dangerous level, or disconnect the 3.3v devices from the board before connecting the 5v to the board's Vcc), whereas if you supply 5v to the Vin pin, the board will be running at 3.3v.
However - a regulator has a quiescent current that it draws to power itself (0.25mA~0.5mA for these regulators). Hence, if you are running on batteries and using power saving techniques, you want to avoid having a regulator on the board if possible. For example, if running off a LiPo/LiIon battery at 3.7~4.2v, you could set it to run at 10MHz, and use no regulator - approximate power use with a regulator (whether or not you power through the regulator or connect power direct to Vcc), the sleep mode power down current will be ~0.25mA (almost all from the regulator), whereas without the regulator, current in sleep mode power down will be ~0.1uA (0.0001mA) at room temperature - that is, for a project where the chip will spend most of it's time in sleep mode power down, the battery life may be 2,500 times longer without the regulator.
If powering from batteries w/out a regulator, you need to be careful not to connect external power directly to Vcc (including from a serial adapter or UPDI programmer) while the battery is connected.
On boards where there is no regulator, the PTC fuse is still present (in series with Vin), and the regulator is bypassed by a 0-ohm resistor, so you can still use the Vin pin power the board to get the benefit of overcurrent protection. See picture 3 for an example of what the "no regulator" looks like.
These are available with an optional CH340-based serial adapter. All of the bundled serial adapters ship with a 6-pin dupont jumper (20-30 cm, and may be mismatched if multiple serial adapters are purchased Like the basic serial adapters, they're stuck somewhere in the mail.
We're currently having stocking problems with the low-cost version, and the alternative ones are all disappointing in one way or another. We're working on sourcing some of our design.
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Kevin | June 30, 2020
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