Breakout/development board for ATtiny1614 and other 14-pin megaAVR ATtiny, Arduino compatibleDesigned by Azduino by Spence Konde in United States of America
Assembled board shown for reference only - this is the listing for the BARE BOARD Assembled boards with ATtiny1624 or ATtiny1614 (and 1604 while supplies last) are available my other listing Cleara...Read More…
Assembled board shown for reference only - this is the listing for the BARE BOARD
Clearance Bonus: buy our entire stock on any given revision of these boards and get the stencil for the solder paste FREE (stainless steel, $25 value!) as we try to move out the old versions in anticipation of the new Rev. C stock. Rev. B is "feature complete", so you aren't missing out - Rev. C just slightly lowers production costs (by narrowing the board so I can fit 10 per panel making a few component changes for cost/assembly reasons), switches to blue soldermask for improved silkscreen readability, and adds markings to the silkscreen for the 2-series parts.
This is a breakout board for all of the "modern" ATtiny parts in SOIC-14 pin packages. They are numbered like: ATtiny ffs4 where ff is flash size is kb, d is the series, 0, 1 or 2, and the 4 indicates that it's the 14-pin version. The 8-pin parts end in 2, 20-pin ones in 6, and 24-pin ones in 7 (my understanding is that the 14, 20, and 24 pin versions use the same die; a complication resulting from this may be the reason that we saw so few 8-pin tinyAVR parts released; within each series, parts of the same flash size and 14-24 pins have identical pinouts, provided that the pin exists on a given size (ie, PC0 has the same function on any part that has it).
All of the modern tinyAVR devices are highly capable and affordable - prices are lower than most classic AVR ATtiny devices (as with EVERYTHING since the 2016 AVR revolution) - while the peripherals use the latest and greatest technology (let's face it - the classic AVR peripherals had been getting a little stale. Actually, they'd been stale for a while). As far as I can tell, Microchip tests out their new technology on a tinyAVR before bringing it to a full sized chip most of the time. The tinyAVR 1-series brought us the Type D high speed async timer which then showed up in 2020 on the DA-series - and while the headline features of the DB-series were entirely novel, the only other changes that showed up in the DA/DB series were evolutionary. Now, in 2021, the amazing new fully differential ADC wth Programable Gain Amplifier (PGA) is featured on the 2-series tinyAVRs; this has been announced for the AVR EA-series line of full size parts for future release. These parts are fully compatible with Arduino using my megaTinyCore, and you can access the full functionality of the new ADC through a handful of new functions, or use analogRead() for backwards compatible ADC functionality.
U1 ATtiny 3224, 1624, 823, 424, 1614, 814, 414, 1604, 804 or 404 in SOIC-14. (You should totally buy at least 10 of these, so you can build them all)
C1 1206 0.1uF Cap - decoupling
C2 (not required, if no regulator and short wires to power supply and/or light load) 1206 Output Cap for regulator and power supply filtering (4.7uF or as directed by regulator datasheet
C3 (If using regulator) 1206 Input Cap for regulator (4.7uF or as directed by regulator datasheet)
C4 1206 0.1uF Cap (optional, Rev. A+ only, if you need autoreset and are willing to disable UPDI and either use optiboot to program, or unsolder the bridge every time you reprogram. Neither is recommended, see below)
R1 1206 470 ohm resistor. Early revisions were assembled with a 4.7k resistor, this is inappropriately high and interferes with many programmers. This went uncorrected on this page (yet nowhere else afaik) for about a year after the problem was recognized mid 2020. See notes below.
R2 1206 10k resistor (optional, Rev. A+ only, only if you want autoreset, see notes below)
R3 1206 resistor (ballast for LED - 2.2k ~ 220 ohm depending on how bright you like your LEDs)
D1 SOD-123 diode, band facing regulator(optional, Rev. A+ only, only if you want autoreset, see notes below)
LED1 (optional) 1206 LED, this is connected to PA7 (Arduino pin 3) -
F1 (if using regulator) 1206 PTC fuse (1A max recommended, can replace with jumper if you like to live dangerously or your power supply is already current limited)
U2 (optional) 1117-series or compatible voltage regulator in SOT-223 package (Recommended: LDL1117)
Pin Header - 1x3 for UPDI header, 1x6 for FTDI serial header. 2 1x15 headers for the I/O pins - recommend normal square header for use with DuPont jumpers, or machined pin header for use with breadboard. All 0.1" pitch.
Power header (if using regulator) Your preferred 2-pin power connector (or wires to in-line connector), 0.1" pitch.
Note: On Rev. - bords, the reference designators are missing from the top silkscreen. Refer to images as reference; part locations are:
U1, U2 - obvious
2 1206 parts on either side of UPDI header - R3, LED1. The end of rthe diode closer to top of boards is the positive side (ie, the one not marked with the faint green dot on most parts)
2 1206 parts between UPDI header and U1 - (starting from UPDI header) R1, C1
2 1206 parts between regulator and Vin header (starting from edge of board) - F1, C2
1 1206 part on other side of regulator - C3
Unlike other AVR microcontrollers, these new parts are programmed via a "UPDI" singlewire interface instead of the SPI-based ICSP protocol. and you can make a UPDI programmer from any cheap Arduino Nano clone - or an even better, cheaper one from a plain old USB-serial adapter!
The order of the pins on the UPDI header is UPDI-Gnd-Vcc - this means that if the programmer is connected backwards, the board will not be damaged.
Early revisions were assembled with a 4.7k resistor, this is inappropriately high and interferes with some programmers - most notably SerialUPDI/pyupdi (though the direct UPDI pin along the side of the board will work regardless of the resistor value installed here. This went uncorrected on this page (yet nowhere else afaik) for about a year after the problem was recognized mid 2020. 470 is more appropriate. Exact value is not critical (obviously, since I'd been selling assembled boards for a year before someone managed to explain to me why that was wrong) - anything from 220 to 1k is definitely fine, up to 4.7k will work with most but not all programmers, and any programmer with a resistor in series with the UPDI line is fine with a 0-ohm or jumper here. Programmers with no resistance between their output and the wire connected to the UPDI header on this board, however, "ought" to have a resistor here.
Rev. A and later has pads for the autoreset circuit - but it's only practical for a development board when a bootloader is in use.
On Rev. -, placing these parts will prevent all UPDI programming; do not place C4, D1, or R2 on Rev. - boards.
megaTinyCore now supports the Optiboot bootloader for serial uploads (though you still need a UPDI programmer to bootload the board - our assembled boards are now available with optiboot preinstalled) - if you wish to use this with autoreset, you must bootload the board with an Optiboot board definition selected, with the UPDI pin configured as reset (note that this makes further UPDI programming impossible without an HV programmer), and then solder the two small contacts on the bottom of the board in order to enable autoreset (which would have blocked UPDI programming to bootload were it connected at that time). After that, it can be programmed with just a serial adapter (same 1x6-pin header as used on the Arduino Pro Mini and others).
If you don't want to use Optiboot, but DO want autoreset - you will have to unsolder that jumper and then use an HV programmer every time you wish to reprogram it. Are you SURE that's what you want?
More information on Optiboot and the megaavr ATtiny parts is available in the megaTinyCore documentation.
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Marco | Sept. 4, 2020
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