ATtiny1614/1604 dev board, 1624 version coming this week, Arduino compatibleDesigned by Azduino by Spence Konde in United States of America
Convenient, basic development/breakout board for new ATtiny1624, 1614, or 1604 Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasing parts based on a new set of peripherals, the megaAVR 0...Read More…
Over the past several years, Atmel/Microchip has been releasing parts based on a new set of peripherals, the megaAVR 0-series and tinyAVR 0/1/2-series. These use the familiar AVR instruction set (with a few of the most important instructrions losing a clock cycle (ST, PUSH and CBI/SBI are the ones that matter) which are now all 1 clock instead of 2) and open source avr-gcc compiler used with the classic AVR microcontrollers, but with redesigned and more capable on-chip peripherals and highly competitive prices. The best known of these (among hobbyists, at least) is the ATmega4809, used on the Arduino Uno WiFi Rev.2 and Nano Every. However, there is also an extensive line of tinyAVR parts based on this new architecture - with my megaTinyCore, there is full Arduino IDE support for these, and almost all libraries are either compatible, or have a compatible bundled version included with the core.
The ATtiny1624 is from the new tinyAVR 2-series line (there are smaller 8k and 4k parts available now - but it sounds like the planned 32k version won't be available until the end of the year (I will believe it when I see it - there were io headers for the 3214 as well, but that one never saw the light of day. I'll be making the 16k versions available on these boards until I've got a tracking number for 3224's ;-) )
The ATtiny1614 and 1604 are the top-end 14-pin parts from the tinyAVR 0/1-series product lines. These breakout boards come equipped with your choice of 3.3v or 5v regulator (LDL1117) so that it can be supplied with an external supply (minimum dropout as low as 0.35v!) using the two pins in the lower left corner, an LED (on PA7, Arduino pin 3), and a UPDI programming header (with the 4.7k resistor on the board). There is a 1x6 pin "FTDI"-style serial header on the bottom edge of the board (no auto reset, as there is no separate reset pin). This board is available with or without autoreset support. Pictures 1 and 3 show boards with autoreset, pictures 2 and 4 show boards without autoreset.
Due to low demand and the challenge of keeping so many parts in stock, we will no longer be making boards with the ATtiny1604 - while supplies last, we've got just a few on hand, including a few with the regulator not yet installed, so we can add regulator per customer specifications - (we have 5.0V, 3.3V, 2.5V and 1.8V LDL1117 regulators on hand - or we cam bypass ot like on no-regulator boards - please specify in comments if you order one of those.) New Optiboot bootloader allows programming with just an external serial adapter (like an Arduino Pro Mini), making these parts easier to use than ever before!
All pins are broken out, and there are 3 Vcc and 3 Gnd pins available, plus the ones on the UPDI and Serial headers so even if you're not using breadboard, you can still easily connect power and ground for multiple external devices.
All autoreset-supporting boards are now built on the Rev. B board design, which adds a number of "solder-bridge" jumpers for optional functionality - See the "documentation" link for full information in excruciating detail.
Board dimensions are 1.4" x 0.85"
This is available as a bare board (supporting all the x24, x14 and x04 parts) here. Want to make lots of them? Buy out our inventory of Rev. -, Rev. A or now, even Rev. B boards, get our own stainless steel stencil (a $25 value) FREE! Yes, that means there's a Rev. C in the works - but unless you wanted to install an externakl clock, it's not going to to be a game changer. Lot of silkcreen improvements, and solder mask / silk combination with more contrast than this awful white-on-yellow which seems to have gotten more inconsistent recently, and a few manufacturability improvements. And of course a checkbox for the 2-series parts on the back.
The new (march 2021) ATtiny1624, a member of the tinyAVR 2-series is now available. As expected, the 2-series is very nearly 100% pin compatible. (code that uses the event system will need modifications - though they will tend to make code simpler - the 0/1-series event system was a bit of a mess; the 2-series has a normal event system identical to what the top-end AVR Dx-series parts have). There is supposedly a 3224 coming around the end of the year, if we're lucky. If/when it arrives, we will stop assembling these boards with 1624 and switch to the 3224. The chief differences between the 1624 and 1614 are listed below - as you can see, unlike the 0-series vs 1-series neither 1 nor 2 is strictly better than the other. If you want two serial ports, or really good analog measurements, the 2-series is where it's at - but if you need two continuous streams of analog readings, a DAC, or more than one analog comparator - or that funky timer for some special PWM featiure - well, you don't have much choice other than the 1-series.
analogReadEnh(pin,17);("enhanced analog read of 'pin' to 17 bits of resolution") - or if you wanted that to be a differential reading?
analogReadDiff(positive_pin,negative_pin,17);You wanted to amplify that by 16x using the PGA too? `analogReadDiff(positive_pin,negative_pin,17,16);. All pretty straight forward, and fully derscribed in the readme. Of course, analogRead(pin) will still by default give you a 10-bit reading, though you can, as usual, switching between the resolutions supported in hardware for a single conversion (8 or 12 - the 10 is a compatibility shim that takles a 12 bit reading and drops the two LSB)
In addition to the usual amenities, we've run a "tuning" sketch on all of the 1624s in stock against a reasonably accurate timebase (certainly accurate to more than an order of magnitude beyond the granularity of OSCCAL so oscillator calibrations for a variety of speeds that are not the stock 16 or 20 MHz are stored in the USERROW memory (which can be accessed like EEPROM, but is not erased by chip erase unless the part was locked, so it will persist even across bootloading). Automatic use of these is nearly completed and will be in megaTinyCore 2.4.0; these boards are ready-to-go if you fancy overclocking your ATtiny (cal settings are included for 12, 16, 20, 24, 25, 30 and 32 MHz - the last two are kind of iffy - not all of them can hit 30 at all when 16 MHz center frequency is selected, and stability at 32 MHz in particular is asking a lot of the silicon even at room temperatuire. This should be regarded as a "fun bonus" not a main feature, and it certainly narrows the range of operating temperatures.
The ATtiny1604 is the top-end 0-series part in a 14-pin package. The 0-series is intended for low cost applications, and cuts a few features. For hobbyists and one-off projects, these are not a compelling choice, and unsurprisingly, they did not sell well. If you do need such a custom boards for some unusual use case (prototyping for mass production maybe?) - remember that we do sell the bare boards and are more than happy to supply any customer buying the bare boards with gerber for the stencil layer so OSHStencils et. al. (or a friend with a laser cutter) can make stencils. The differences with the tinyAVR 0-series:
In some of the pictures shown above, the boards are shown with pin header (not included) attached. We recommend:
We offer an optional colored pinheader kit containing:
There are two approaches to programming these parts:
Unlike "classic" AVR microcontrollers, these new parts are programmed via a "UPDI" single wire interface instead of the SPI-based ICSP protocol. You can easily make a UPDI programmer from (almost) any serial adapter with a schottky diode or 4.7k resistor, (I found that the diode worked far better - some people disagree and the matter has not yet been fully explained). As of the most recent releases of my megaTinyCore which improved performance using this method (it now leaves jtag2updi and Microchip's official programmers in the dust), this is what we recommend; see the instructions here:
The order of the pins on the UPDI header is UPDI-Gnd-Vcc - this means that if the programmer is connected backwards, the board will not be damaged. The 4.7k resistor is on the breakout board; you do not need to (and should not) use another one.
A typical development configuration might have the board connected to a serial port via the 6-pin serial header for serial debug, and to the UPDI programmer via the 3-pin header for uploading new code (as shown in the pictures). This is generally how we use it, and is what we recommend.
The Optiboot bootloader is supported for all parts; this works with an external serial adapter (like the 6-pin ones used for the Arduino Pro Mini). Optiboot takes up 512b of flash for the bootloader. In addition to obliviating the need for a UPDI programmer to upload sketches (though note that the same serial adapter could also be used as a UPDI programmer, Optiboot allows you to use the same port for upload and serial monitor like a normal Arduino board.
There are two general approaches to using Optiboot on these parts:
Without auto-reset, UPDI enabled. On all boards that do not support auto-reset, and on boards that do if this option is selected, the UPDI/Reset pin will be left as UPDI, and the board can be freely reprogrammed via UPDI. The version of the bootloader installed will be active for 8 seconds after power on, or after a WDT or software reset. So for example, to upload, you would verify sketch, unplug, plug back in, and then upload - or alternatively, you could adapt your sketch to trigger a software reset. UPDI programming will still be possible. Note that for these boards, you must use UPDI to "burn bootloader" with the non-optiboot board definition selected if you want to switch back to uploading sketches via UPDI
With auto-reset, no UPDI. On boards which do support auto-reset (if using optiboot), you may elect to order the board with or without that enabled. If it is, the bootloader will not run on power on; it will only run after a "hardware reset" - it will not run after a normal power on reset. Only after external (reset pin) or software reset; this mimics the behavior of a classic bootloader on (for example) an ATmega328p, and coupled with autoreset provides a very smooth user experience. Warning: This comes with a very large downside: if this option is chosen, you cannot reprogram the board via UPDI unless you use an "HV UPDI" programmer. The RST_EN solder bridge must also be disconnected prior to that.
A third approach is to upload sketches which all have a means of triggering a "software reset" from within the sketch, either from a pin interrupt (the existing autoreset parts could be wired to this pin). With other trigger mechanisms, this could be used in more advanced deployments, such as a device at the far end of a serial line, which resets in response to a specific command0). These schemes allow one to use the bootloader without powercycling the board while also permitting use of UPDI programming - however because they depend on the sketch, they are inherently more "brittle", and that UPDI programming option may become necessary to revive boards during development - in the event of bugs in the application. This method is beyond the scope of this product listing.
If purchased without the bootloader installed, if you later decide that you want it, you may install it using a UPDI by doing burn bootloader (if using autoreset and UPDI pin set as reset, the jumper on the back must be closed after bootloading); this pre-bootloading service is intended only as a convenience.
Boards with optiboot preinstalled are bootloaded at the time the order is received. All boards are set to 20-MHz derived clock speeds unless 16 MHz is requested, 4.2 sampled BOD, 3.3v boards are set to 10MHz (will also run at 5MHz) 2.6v sampled BOD. No-regulator boards are set to 20MHz/10MHz/5MHz, with BOD disabled to minimize idle power consumption. Because these are bootloaded on-demand, and since UPDI programming is disabled on autoreset boards, if you have different requirements (eg, 16MHz base clock to allow 16MHz/8MHz/4MHz speeds, or different BOD settings), this can be done, just list what you want in order comments.
More information on Optiboot and the tinyAVR 0/1/2-series parts is available in the megaTinyCore documentation.
The linear regulators offered can provide a regulated operating voltage provided Vin in at least 1.3v (ZLDO1117) higher than the operating voltage. These regulators are appropriate when your current requirements are relatively low, and you have access to a power supply with a voltage higher than the operating voltage (max 18v input) - maximum power dissipation, however, is only ~ 1.2W without adding heatsinks, (that is to say
(Vin - Vout)*(current) < 1.2W) so the practical maximum current is much lower.
Example calculations of maximum current when using the regulator:
Vin-Vout=7V. 7V*I < 1.2W -> I < 1.2W/7V -> I < 170mA
Vin-Vout=2V. 2V*I < 1.2W -> I < 1.2W/2V -> I < 600mA
Only the Vin pin goes through the regulator - all other Vcc pins (including the UPDI and FTDI headers) are connected directly to the Vcc rail - so if you have a 3.3v regulator, but connect a 5v serial adapter's 5v line to the board, the board will be running at 5v (this will not harm the board itself, as long as the voltage does not exceed 5.5v - but if you have 3.3V devices connected to it, those may be harmed, so if you have any of those connected, you must use a 3.3v serial adapter or power some other way, and not connect the 5v pin of the serial adapter (the data lines are fine, as serial adapters almost universally have a 1k - 2.2k resistor in series with the TX line, while the RX line is only weakly pulled up and can be handled by the protection diodes which will limit the current to a non-dangerous level, or disconnect the 3.3v devices from the board before connecting the 5v to the board's Vcc), whereas if you supply 5v to the Vin pin, the board will be running at 3.3v.
However - a regulator has a quiescent current that it draws to power itself (0.25mA~0.5mA for these regulators). Hence, if you are running on batteries and using power saving techniques, you want to avoid having a regulator on the board if possible. For example, if running off a LiPo/LiIon battery at 3.7~4.2v, you could set it to run at 10MHz, and use no regulator - approximate power use with a regulator (whether or not you power through the regulator or connect power direct to Vcc), the sleep mode power down current will be ~0.25mA (almost all from the regulator), whereas without the regulator, current in sleep mode power down will be ~0.1uA (0.0001mA) at room temperature - that is, for a project where the chip will spend most of it's time in sleep mode power down, the battery life may be 2,500 times longer without the regulator.
If powering from batteries w/out a regulator, you need to be careful not to connect external power directly to Vcc (including from a serial adapter or UPDI programmer) while the battery is connected.
On boards where there is no regulator, the PTC fuse is still present (in series with Vin), and the regulator is bypassed by a 0-ohm resistor, so you can still use the Vin pin power the board to get the benefit of overcurrent protection. See picture 3 for an example of what the "no regulator" looks like.
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