10 x Eurorack Power Connectors in a very compact (100 x 50 mm) board!
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New and updated 1.1d version! All components are now Through Hole only! And the bus gets 2 more Eurorack connectors! Eurorack Compact Power Bus This is probably the smallest Eurorack power bus! Perfe…
Read More…New and updated 1.1d version! All components are now Through Hole only!
And the bus gets 2 more Eurorack connectors!
This is probably the smallest Eurorack power bus! Perfect for small skiff synths, or in addition in your latest monster case expansion.
As it's short, the 0 volt traces are short and the reference rail impedances are low. This is very important for reducing common-mode noise problems.
Want bigger? Check my other bus boards:
Place the Bus Board in the back of your case and plug in your modules! It can also be used, connected to your bench supply, as a test setup for your freshly assembled modules.
The new version 1.1d hosts now 10 x Eurorack 16-pin (2 x 8) connectors with 3 LEDs for Voltage Rails visualisation.
Input power by one 4-pin Screw Terminal connector. Of course you can feed power through an Eurorack 16-pin connector (as in a chained bus topology) but I strongly recommend to use the dedicated power input.
Because I needed one, of course, and because any Eurorack user needs a way to bring power to his beloved modules, even in the tiniest and compact case!
It's very compact (one of the smallest I think), affordable, and easy to use. Screw Terminals are exttremely versatile. You can connect easily any Power Supply to the Bus Board. LEDs show you if there's energy on the rails, and if the polarities are correct.
I added 2 options. You can now choose between keyed connectors and simple pin arrays. (see pictures for differences)
HE-10 Connectors are keyed: no more deadly reverse polarity plugging error! Even in the dark or deep into your case, don't fear to kill your module by reversing the connector. Don't fear to miss a pair of pins, which generally ends in a nasty firework too.
Simple pin headers: Some people do prefer this solution because you should never trust the red stripe. Yes, sometimes, the power cables are mis assembled and the red stripe does not always correspond to pin #1 (shown by triangle on connector).
Be careful! Some ribbon cables are wrongly made, with inverted connectors. Also, even if the connectors are keyed, there's no guarantee the voltages are correctly polarized.
Always check voltages polarities and power connector pinouts before plugging anything! Less magic smoke, more music!
I care about the success of your project: You can contact me by email and chat. I’ll try to answer your questions regarding the BOM and the build process within the limits of my knowledge and availability. Your feedback also helps me improve my designs.
I do not use your email nor your personal information for any purpose other than to provide support, updates and important information.
The PCBs and Kits are to be assembled by the end-user. The final result will consequently be the sole responsibility of the end-user. The PCB will only function if the user is capable of proper assembly, with the appropriate techniques, tools and components.
It is therefore essential:
DIY implies spending a lot of time troubleshooting and searching in documentations, datasheets etc. Tools and techniques for troubleshooting, debugging and repairing your circuits are therefore recommended.
Also, I cannot be held for responsible in case of injuries or any damage that could result from the build or the use of the products and the schematics.
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